Encyclopedia

Emollients

17 emollient ingredients explained in plain English.

Aloe Vera Palmitate Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract Palmitate An oil-soluble form of aloe vera, modified by ester-bonding to palmitic acid. Gives aloe's calming benefits in anhydrous and oil-phase products. 1-5% Brassica Oil Copolymer Hydrogenated Polymerized Cis-9-Hexadecenoate (and similar) A clear, plant-derived polymer often called 'plant silicone.' Mimics the slip and dry-touch finish of dimethicone without using silicones. 3-30% C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate A clear, low-viscosity ester that gives lotions a silky, fast-absorbing feel without being greasy. The unsung backbone of countless face creams. 3-30% Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate A medium-weight emollient ester that delivers smooth, non-greasy skin conditioning and builds viscosity in the oil phase. 5-20% Dicaprylyl Ether Dicaprylyl Ether An ultra-lightweight, dry-touch emollient with a near-volatile feel that serves as a plant-derived silicone alternative. 5-30% Ethylhexyl Olivate Ethylhexyl Olivate A naturally-derived emollient made from olive oil fatty acids. Closely mimics the skin's own sebum lipids. 3-30% Ethylhexyl Palmitate Ethylhexyl Palmitate A clear, light, fast-absorbing ester used as a slip-enhancer in lotions and makeup. Cheap, neutral, and reliable. 3-30% Hydrogenated Polyisobutene Hydrogenated Polyisobutene A crystal-clear, ultra-stable synthetic emollient that delivers glossy, non-tacky finishes — the backbone of most lip gloss formulas. 5-50% (up to 80% in lip gloss) Isoamyl Cocoate Isoamyl Cocoate A lightweight, fast-absorbing coconut-derived ester that works as a natural alternative to silicones. 5-30% Isododecane Isododecane A volatile, plant-derived hydrocarbon that gives instant slip and dries to a powder finish. The natural replacement for cyclomethicone. 5-50% Isohexadecane Isohexadecane A slightly heavier, less volatile relative of isododecane. Light and dry-feeling but with more cushion and longer skin presence. 3-30% Isononyl Isononanoate Isononyl Isononanoate A clear, ultra-light branched ester with a powder-dry finish. Used in primers and makeup where a non-greasy, satin feel matters. 3-20% Lanolin Lanolin A waxy, water-binding fat from sheep's wool. The strongest natural occlusive available, and one of the few ingredients safe for nipple care during breastfeeding. 2-30% Mineral Oil Paraffinum Liquidum (or) Mineral Oil A clear, colourless, odourless liquid hydrocarbon refined from crude oil. Cheap, stable, and one of the most rigorously studied cosmetic ingredients. 5-100% Octyldodecanol Octyldodecanol A branched, oily fatty alcohol with the slip of an oil and the conditioning of a butter. The secret ingredient in many high-end lipsticks. 3-30% Petrolatum Petrolatum The gold-standard occlusive ingredient. Cosmetic-grade petrolatum forms a near-impermeable seal that reduces water loss by up to 99%. 3-100% Sucrose Cocoate Sucrose Cocoate A sugar-derived emollient with skin-conditioning and humectant properties. Plant-based, gentle, and an unusually good substitute for petrolatum in some balms. 2-15%