Reference

Glossary

Plain-English definitions of cosmetic formulation terms — emulsifiers, INCI names, preservatives, actives, and processes.

BTMS-50 Emulsifier INCI: Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetyl Alcohol (and) Butylene Glycol

A vegetable-derived cationic emulsifier with conditioning properties. Excellent for hair products and rich body creams. Use 4-7%.

Cetearyl Alcohol Thickener INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol

A blend of cetyl + stearyl alcohols. Co-emulsifier and thickener. Use 2-5%, oil phase.

Cetyl Alcohol Thickener INCI: Cetyl Alcohol

A fatty alcohol used to thicken and stabilize emulsions. Adds slip and skin-feel. Use 1-5%, oil phase. Not drying despite the name.

Cool-down phase Process

The stage after emulsification (around 40°C) where heat-sensitive actives, fragrance, and preservatives are added.

Emulsifier Functional

An ingredient that allows water and oil to mix into a stable cream or lotion. Common types: emulsifying wax NF, BTMS-50 (cationic, conditioning), Olivem 1000, Polawax.

See also BTMS-50Olivem 1000Emulsifying Wax NF

Emulsifying Wax NF Emulsifier INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Polysorbate 60

A non-ionic emulsifier that produces stable, light-bodied lotions. Use 4-8% of total formula. Heat to 70°C with the oil phase.

Glycerin Humectant INCI: Glycerin

A water-loving ingredient that draws moisture into the skin. Use 2-5% in lotions, water phase. Above 7% can feel sticky.

Heat & hold Process

Heating water and oil phases separately to 70°C and holding for 20 minutes to dissolve, melt, and reduce microbial load before emulsifying.

Hyaluronic Acid Active INCI: Sodium Hyaluronate

A humectant that holds up to 1000× its weight in water. Use 0.1-2% (low molecular weight penetrates, high molecular weight surface-hydrates).

INCI Term

International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. Standardized ingredient naming required on cosmetic labels worldwide.

Liquid Germall Plus Preservative INCI: Propylene Glycol (and) Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate

A water-soluble preservative effective against bacteria, yeast, and mold. Use 0.1-0.5%. Add at cool-down.

Niacinamide Active INCI: Niacinamide

Vitamin B3. Reduces redness, improves barrier, regulates sebum. Use 2-5% in serums and creams. Water-soluble; add to cool-down phase.

Olivem 1000 Emulsifier INCI: Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate

An olive-derived non-ionic emulsifier. Approved for organic certification. Produces velvety creams. Use 3-8%, oil phase.

Optiphen Preservative INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol

A paraben/formaldehyde-free preservative system. Use 0.5-1.5%. Effective pH 4-8.

pH Process

A measure of acidity. Skin sits at 4.5-5.5. Most leave-on products target 4.5-6. Always test with pH strips or a meter.

Phenoxyethanol Preservative INCI: Phenoxyethanol

A broad-spectrum preservative. Often combined (Optiphen, Phenonip). Use 0.5-1%. Add at cool-down (<40°C).

Polysorbate 80 Solubilizer INCI: Polysorbate 80

A water-soluble solubilizer for oils, fragrance, and essential oils. Use 1-3× the weight of the oil to dissolve. Use 0.5-3%.

Retinol Active INCI: Retinol

Vitamin A derivative for cell turnover and anti-aging. Use 0.1-1% in oil-soluble cool-down. Light-sensitive — use opaque packaging.

Salicylic Acid Active INCI: Salicylic Acid

A beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) that exfoliates inside pores. Use 0.5-2% in leave-on products at pH 3-4.

Stearic Acid Thickener INCI: Stearic Acid

A fatty acid co-emulsifier and thickener. Common in body butters and creams. Use 1-5%, oil phase.

Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) Active INCI: Ascorbic Acid

Antioxidant brightener. Use 5-20% in low-pH (3-3.5) water-based serums. Oxidizes fast — formulate fresh and pack in airless bottles.